Shibuya in the Rain

On a rainy night in Shibuya, the gridlock of umbrellas on the Hachiko crossing...

...actually looks more striking than the flashing neon skyscrapers which surround it

Early Blossoms in Umegaoka

In preparation for the big 'ohanami' blossom-viewing bonanza in April, we decided to go for a practice run. The plum blossoms bloom earlier (and smell nicer) than the cherries...but apparently they look less impressive.

That's not what I thought when I saw a grove of plum blossoms on an afternoon stroll in Hanegi Park.

Against a wall of white flowers, the little clusters of bright pink were especially lovely

The flowers were so thick it was easy to get lost...

...but we muddled through somehow.

I was very pleased.

Hanegi Park is in an area of Tokyo called Umegaoka - 'Ume' means 'plum'. Which, I suppose, is why there really isn't a better place to see early blossoms, than here!

Spring Flowers in Shinjuku, Salt in Shibuya

March 20th is Spring Equinox Day in Tokyo - the first official 'Springtime' national holiday. I'd had half a plan to go to the theatre, but the day was so beautiful and sunny - even warm! - that being indoors seemed horribly close to a sin. So, we went to the park instead.

We'd been meaning to go to Shinjuku Gyoen - the most beautiful park in Tokyo, slap bang in the middle of the skyscraper district - for months. And what a day for it. The crowds of early-bird photographers of the famous spring blossoms under the trees made this one look uncannily like a giant cheerleader's pompom

then, passing a pond on a turn through the Japanese formal gardens, I couldn't resist communing with my inner frog

 After fully returning to humanity, it was off to Tokyo Wonder Site, Shibuya branch. This week's installation, a video of a guy standing infront of all kinds of international sites, deliberately looking a bit gormless, was fun to watch. And not just because it reminded me of myself a mere hour beforehand

Next, the Tobacco and Salt museum, a shrine to two of my most favourite things. I'm still not absolutely sure why they share a museum...but I was happy anyway! A giant salt crystal from Iran, hundreds of cigarette packet designs and a postcard of a cartoon witch smoking with her pet later, I went home, ate ready salted crisps and rolled a Cutter's Choice.

It's a serious underaking, relaxing in Tokyo.

Guitar Gods in Daita

Before I came to Tokyo, I believed it when people said that gigs in Japan are polite affairs: the audience claps at exactly the right time, after the song is over only - no jumping around, no shouting and screaming.

I shouldn't have. They were dead wrong.

When I went to see the great Guitar Wolf play a one-off gig 5 minutes from my house (lucky me!), the noise and arm-waving of the packed-out crowd...

and the general 'starriness' of the band...

who weren't above some pure, unadulterated rock god style cheesy showing off...

...more than made up for the small size of the venue. I'm just sorry I didn't get a picture of the moshing, crowdsurfing and 'random bloke brought up on stage to play guitar' antics that also went on. Next time, maybe.

Rock on! An extremely welcome 'return to Tokyo' treat.

Terrified by Temple Dogs - Part 1

The Coolest Bookshop in Tokyo?

Not the most imaginative name in the world...but everything else is completely flawless (including the glass wall at the back of the shop which shows all the cool publishing employees working on their cool computers dressed in their cool clothes - grr, envy). There can't be that many bookshops anywhere that look this smart all the time

A Japanese Noh Story in London - The Miller - 16th February 2012

There's no time ike the present to begin a Sinister Masterplan - my campaign to bring Noh stories to a wider audience begins next week. At the Miller in London Bridge, in the shadow of Valentine's Day, I will tell the angel story Hagoromo (The Feather Cloak in English).

It really is happening. There is even a flyer!